Montagne de Reims

An overview of Montagne de Reims, a region to the north of Champagne which is most famous for its Grand Cru Pinot Noir, but there’s also Chardonnay and Meunier planted, and styles vary according to the village and to the producer. A facsinating example of how terroir is more important to Champagne than is sometimes discussed.

New York's White Hybrids

25% of plantings in New York are hybrids. Many producers and commentators don’t think it’s possible to make quality wine from hybrids, but New Yorkers disagree. I tasted 21 white wines from hybrids to find out…

"Nolo" wines

Nolo wines—with no or low alcohol—have been a talking point for a while as consumers are increasingly health- and socially-conscious. However, quality has been low, as alcohol is a key component in the structure and taste of wine. But there is some good Nolo wines being made, if you know where to look. Here’s a brief overview.

“The Wines of Germany”

Review of a highly entertaining and informative new book about the wines of Germany by Stephen Bitterolf, who set up an import company, vom Boden, ten years ago. His commitment to supporting German producers is apparent throughout and the “love letters” to the regions bring them to life. Alongside beautiful photos, this is an ode to German wine.

Understanding What’s Cava and What’s Not Cava

Cava can be confusing and controversial. There are several breakaways making very similar wines due to concerns over quality—but there is still lots of great Cava being made within the designation. So why are there these rival regional entities and how do we know what to buy? Here’s an overview of the situation.

Hybrids

A recent tasting of a hybrid blend from New York opened up a discussion on the history, use, and potential quality of the many hybrids grown across North America. Often dismissed as only producing low-quality wines, hybrids nevertheless have their place in viticulture which is beginning to be more appreciated. The great question remains though: can hybrids produce quality wine…?

Armenia

Armenia’s winemaking history goes back at least 6,000 years and probably more, but it’s only over the last ten years that there has been a renaissance in quality and international exposure. In this episode, Vahe Kueshguerian—the doyen of Armenian winemaking—talks about the history of Armenia’s wine, the geography, the grape varieties, and the trends which are shaping the country’s wine culture.

Cava Discovery Week

An intense week tasting lots of Cava in New York while running from restaurant which demonstrated just how many good producers there are making wine which reflects their families’ long histories and the land the grapes are grown in.

WSET Spirits Level 3

I passed WSET Level 3 in Spirits, but it was not easy! So many fermentation techniques to learn about, so many styles of spirits. The course is an involved, intense insight into the world of spirits. Here’s what taking the course looks like,

Long Island

Long Island has a unique growing environment: the same latitude as Madrid, but heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and more like Bordeaux. The region is celebrating its 50th anniversary, moving from a developing wine scene to one confident in its current direction with much more certainty about grape varieties and how to work with the sometimes difficult growing conditions. As a result, quality is far more consistent making Long Island a region to follow.

Dry Loire Chenin Blanc

Loire’s dry wines from Chenin Blanc are currently quite fashionable for their high acid, linear, food-friendly style—but that wasn’t always the case. The last 30 years have seen a lot of changes to increase quality: better picking times, less sulphur, longer ageing to make more precise, expressive wines. Understanding Loire Chenin Blanc helps us truly appreciate the style and the quality.

St-Joseph

St-Joseph is a—too—large northern Rhône appellation, which makes understanding it difficult. Historically, the best wines came from the southern part, and that’s arguably still the case now. There’s also a determination to make the boundaries more focused. Increasingly, there is excellent white wine being made too. Overall, St-Joseph is overgoing a welcome upswing in quality and consistency.

Southern Rhône: Not Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The Southern Rhône is most famous for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but there are many other wines with localised influences. Gigondas and Ventoux are affected by the cooling Dentelles de Montmarail mountains; Tavel produces fuller-bodied rosé with perhaps more experimentation than is supposed; and there are the smaller, lesser-known villages which provide particularly good value alternatives.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of the most famous names in French wine, producing a full-bodied style of wine most consumers are familiar with. However, the wines are much more diverse than its reputation suggests, with varied soil types, many grape varieties, aspect influences, weather patterns, and producer choices all influencing the final style of wine. A quick visit to the appellation showed that Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a lot of surprises to offer.

La Cité du Vin in Bordeaux

La Cité du Vin was opened in 2016, and is worth visiting Bordeaux in its own right. Last week was the second time I’ve been there and it’s well worth repeatedly visiting: after all, I got a glass of Bulgarian sparkling wine at the end, with views over Bordeaux as I sipped. What’s not to love?

St. Emilion & Pomerol

St-Emilion and Pomerol neighbour each other and are always Merlot dominant, but there are lots of differences within the regions: soils, viticultural practices, aspect, quality, and the prices of the wines. Two prestigious regions which are hard to pin down.

Haut-Médoc

A brief trip to Haut-Médoc to learn about the growing conditions, the effects of climate change, the styles of wine, and the effect of the Garonne river and Gironde estuary on the four famous villages of St-Estèphe, Paulliac, St-Julien, and Margaux.

Sauternes

Sauternes is a famous region for sweet wine in the south of Bordeaux. On a brief visit there, I learnt all about the importance of climate, inconsistent weather, and rivers, how noble rot develops, and how the wines of Sauternes are made. And I got to visit Château d’Yquem!