White Rioja
There are many similarities between Rioja and Bordeaux: an Atlantic influence (albeit less direct than Bordeaux), the relationship formed after phylloxera hit Bordeaux in the 1860s, the influence of Bordeaux producers on the use of oak in Rioja, and also in the decline of white wine in both famous regions. Just as Bordeaux only became a majority red wine producer in 1970, so too in Rioja where production of red wine overtook white wine in 1975. When we think of either Bordeaux or Rioja, we immediately think of red wine but that wasn't always the case.
And, like in Bordeaux, white wine is making a small comeback in Rioja with production figures slowly rising (accounting for 10% of plantings, coincidentally the same as Bordeaux). This is a welcome development, because it highlights the diversity of Rioja's growing environment and provides a wider range of styles for us to enjoy. After a week in Rioja, I've tried fresh, crisp summer whites, lees- and oak-aged whites, and more oxidative styles, all from a number of different varieties, highlighting that there are many ongoing trends within Rioja.
viura
Cune winery in Haro
The most common white grape variety and perhaps the best known, Viura is also known as Macabeo/Macabeu in Catalunya and Maccabeu in Roussillon. The wines come in many shapes and sizes; as with Chardonnay, being a rather neutral variety allows the winemaker to play around. Relatively high in acidity, wines can be fresh and youthful but that acidity also gives the potential to produced aged wine. Perhaps the most famous/fashionable example is López de Heredia’s “Gravonia” (named after the Graves region in Bordeaux); I tasted the 2016—the latest release—in a Logroño wine bar, a wonderfully oxidative, sherry-like white which represents all the traditions of the region. It’s not the only example of serious, aged white Rioja. Conde Valdemar make a Viñedo Singular (a single-vineyard wine); the 2023 is aged for six months in new oak on the lees for a rich, powerful, creamy wine. Martínez-Lacuesta, a traditional producer known for their vermouth, have revived their white Reserva: aged for 26 months in French barriques for a golden, nutty, waxy, lightly oxidative style lifted by very fresh acidity. Bodegas Bilbainas and Gómez-Cruzado are two other producers making wines based on Viura, which are rich and Chardonnay like. In contrast, the Viura at Sierra Toloño is saline, with a summer-like acidic sting. CVNE (“Cune” on the label), meanwhile, make a Viura aged in manzanilla casks; a slightly bizarre project, but there is a lovely, subtle sherry-like finish. Viura is a fascinating introduction into the versatility of Rioja’s white wines.
tempranillo blanco
Pictured above, Tempranillo Blanco was the most interesting white grape of the trip. Back in 2012, when I joined the wine industry a colleague at the shop I started working at had just been on a trip to Rioja and she said that Tempranillo Blanco was the variety every winemaker was most excited about. Since then, I've always kept an eye out for the variety, but have only ever tasted a handful of versions over thirteen years. I thought maybe she had been exaggerating the potential of Tempranillo Blanco, or that the trend just hadn't taken off. Visiting Rioja in 2025, however, I came away with the exact same conclusion she had drawn: Tempranillo Blanco is producing some of the most interesting white wine in Rioja.
Tempranillo Blanco was accidentally discovered in 1988; on a Tempranillo vine, there was one bunch of grapes that remained determinedly white rather than black. Cuttings were taken and plantings of the mutation were cultivated. In 2013, it joined the list of official Rioja varieties. It's hard to generalise about the wines made from Tempranillo Blanco, because there are many different styles made according to the winemaker. Furthermore, concluding which soil types it's best suited to is still a work in progress.
Raúl Tamayo at Palacíos Vinos de Finca is passionate about research into soil types, a topic not fully explored in Rioja. He’s concluded that Tempranillo Blanco is best on clay-based soils, as they add weight and volume to the wines. His Tempranillo Blanco is very fresh, with the four months on the lees adding a light spice texture. Valenciso’s version is richer, spending seven months in oak for a round, rich, spicy wine. Paco García, a medium-sized producer, make a high-acid, waxy, creamy expression which spends six months on the lees. Ilurce’s Tempranillo Blanco is simpler, a fresh, youthful easy wine with chamomile aromas. For a variety discovered less than forty years ago, there is a remarkable range of wines made from Tempranillo Blanco.
maturana blanca
Not to be confused with Maturana Tinta (a black grape variety that has the same name but is no relation), Maturana Blanca was something of a new discovery to me: I knew it existed, but didn't realise how many producers were working with it. It’s an historic variety, descended from Savagnin, placing it in the centre of the development of European viticulture; in fact, it’s the first recorded variety in Rioja (1622). Plantings were until recently almost non-existent, but it has been revived by winemakers such as Juan Carlos Sancha: his “Ad Libitum” spends five months on the lees in 500L oak barrels for a wine with straw, hay, white pepper aromas. Palacios Vinos de Finca also make a single-varietal Maturana Blanca which is aged for 36 months; from sandy soils at high elevation (700-800m), the result is a wine with high acid, a round mouthfeel, and an elegant texture.
The high acidity of Maturana Blanca makes it an interesting choice for sparkling wine, a growing category in Rioja. Vivanco make a rich, toasty, powerful wine, aged for 30 months on the lees, from a blend of 45% Maturana Blanca, 30% Tempranillo Blanco, 15% Viura, and 10% Chardonnay (the only Chardonnay I encountered was for bubbles). I hope that the trend for Maturana Blanca continues.
malvasia riojana
Malvasia is a family of varieties grown across the Mediterranean; many of the varieties called Malvasia have absolutely nothing in common with each other, which makes it all a bit confusing. Malvasia de Rioja or Malvasia Riojana is an example of how the name isn't that helpful, as it has no relation to other Malvasia varieties and isn't especially aromatic; it's probably best to refer to it by its local name, Rojal, referring to its red skins, or as Alarije as it's known across Spain.
It used to to be the dominant white variety in Rioja, but has long been overtaken by Viura. During my visit, there were no single-varietal wines, and only used sparingly in blends. It’s also not that useful for sparkling wine so I wouldn’t suggest it has as exciting a future as the varieties mentioned above.
garnacha blanca
I was surprised that I didn't taste any single-varietal Garnacha Blanca, or that it didn’t feature that much in blends. It’s one of my favourite white Mediterranean grapes but is quite limited within Rioja. However, it adds an oily, waxy texture which fits in to the overall style of white Rioja. Perhaps it should be used more, but there’s no indication of that happening.
One further aspect to note: most of these wines are from plantings at high elevation, from 500m up to 750m. Rioja isn’t naturally associated with high elevation, but it’s an important factor. White grapes are often the highest plantings as they are able to deal with more water and cooler conditions. As growers and producers explore the mountains of Rioja, white grapes may continue to become even more important.
